Iver Johnson Revolver Serial Number Database Best -
For over a century, Iver Johnson’s Arms & Cycle Works (1871–1993) was the blue-collar hero of American firearms. Their “Hammer the Hammer” safety revolvers were legendary—so safe that you could confidently carry one with all five chambers loaded. They were affordable, reliable, and everywhere.
But here was the nightmare for collectors and historians:
Without a key, a rusty Iver Johnson was just a paperweight with a tragic past.
Finding the production year of an Iver Johnson revolver requires cross-referencing serial number prefixes and mechanical features, as there is no single, central "official" database remaining since the company went out of business
. The most comprehensive data is derived from historical reconstruction, notably by researcher W.E. "Bill" Goforth. Key Serial Number Indicators
Serial number formats changed significantly over the company's production history to denote different eras and powder types. No Letter Prefix (1909–1919) : Typically indicates early 20th-century production. Single Letter Prefix (1920–1929) : Standard for revolvers and shotguns during the 1920s. Two-Letter Prefix (1930–1939) : Introduced for more varied models produced concurrently. All-Letter Serial (1940–1950) : Rare coding system used on some later models. The "FITCHBURG" Coding System
Iver Johnson famously used a "word-code" for some serializations based on their home city, Fitchburg, MA. : F=1, I=2, T=3, C=4, H=5, B=6, U=7, R=8, G=9. : A serial of "BHFI" translates to 6521. Locating the Serial Number
Numbers are often hidden to prevent tampering or located on parts that require disassembly to view.
Unlocking the Past: A Guide to the Iver Johnson Revolver Serial Number Database
Dating an Iver Johnson revolver is famously tricky because the company didn't always use a consistent, centralized numbering system. Whether you've inherited a family heirloom or found a "Safety Automatic" at a local gun show, identifying its age is crucial for both historical value and safety—especially when determining if it can handle modern "smokeless" powder. 1. Where to Find Your Serial Number
Unlike modern firearms, Iver Johnson numbers are often hidden. To find the true serial number (which often includes a vital letter prefix), check these locations:
The Grip Frame (Bottom of Butt): Most common for later models.
Under the Grips: You may need to remove the "Owl’s Head" grips to see the full number and letter prefix on the left side of the grip strap. The Trigger Guard: Often found on the bottom of the guard.
Under the Top Strap: On top-break models, look here after opening the action. 2. Decoding the Letter Prefixes
The letter prefix is the "secret code" for the year of manufacture. While specialized reference books like W.E. Goforth’s Iver Johnson Arms & Cycle Works 1871-1993
are the gold standard, you can use these general rules of thumb: Prefix Type Estimated Production Era No Prefix 1909 – 1919 (or pre-1894 for Model 1) Single Letter 1920 – 1929 Two Letters 1930 – 1939 All Letters 1940 – 1950 3. The "Smokeless" Powder Cutoff
The most critical reason to date your revolver is to know if it's safe to shoot. Early Iver Johnsons were built for Black Powder. Iver Johnson Revolver Serial Number Database BEST
Pre-1909 (1st & 2nd Models): Designed for black powder only. Do not use modern smokeless ammunition, as the frames are not strong enough.
1909–1941 (3rd Model/New Model): These were adapted for smokeless powder. You can identify them by the four-pin frame construction and the fact that the "Owl" on the grip usually faces toward the barrel. 4. Quick Identification by Model Features
If the serial number is worn, look for these physical clues:
First Model (1894–1896): Features a single-post latch on the top frame.
Second Model (1897–1908): Features a double-post latch and a safety lever on the trigger face.
Third Model (1909–1941): Designed for smokeless powder; lacks the safety lever on the trigger. Expert Resources for Verification
For a definitive identification, it is highly recommended to consult a certified firearms appraiser or specialized databases: Iver Johnson Revolver Year & Info: Expert Q&A Guide
Finding reliable information for an Iver Johnson Revolver Serial Number Database can be a challenge because the company's records were not maintained as centrally as major competitors like Colt or Smith & Wesson. However, by understanding the specific patterns of letter prefixes and physical frame characteristics, you can accurately date most of these "Owl’s Head" revolvers. The "True" Serial Number Location
Before checking a database, you must find the true serial number. While numbers often appear on the trigger guard or the butt of the grip, these parts were frequently replaced.
Reliable Location: Remove the left grip panel. The full serial number, including the critical letter prefix, is usually stamped directly onto the left side of the metal grip frame.
Secondary Locations: Check under the top strap (open the action and remove the cylinder) or on the bottom receiver tang. Iver Johnson Serial Number Dating Key
Iver Johnson used a system of letter prefixes to indicate the decade and specific year of production. Prefix Type Production Era No Prefix 1909 – 1919 Generally Third Model "Smokeless" frames. Single Letter 1920 – 1929 E.g., Prefix "C" often indicates 1926. Two Letters 1930 – 1939 Used for later production Safety Automatic models. All Letters 1940 – 1950
Often seen on "Champion" series shotguns and late revolvers. Identifying the Three Main "Safety Automatic" Models
The most common Iver Johnson revolvers are the Safety Automatic series (1894–1941). Identifying the "Model" is often easier than finding an exact year. Question: Iver Johnson 32 cal top break - SASS Forum
To identify the manufacture date of an Iver Johnson revolver, you can use the serial number prefix specific markings
as a guide. There is no single "magic" official database, but collectors rely on established patterns from experts like Bill Goforth Iver Johnson Serial Number Quick Guide For over a century, Iver Johnson’s Arms &
Iver Johnson used a specific letter-prefix system for most of the 20th century to designate production decades: No Letter Prefix: Generally manufactured between 1909 and 1919 Single Letter Prefix: Manufactured between 1920 and 1929 Two Letter Prefix: Manufactured between 1930 and 1939 All Letter Serial:
Often seen on models like the "Champion" shotgun or late revolvers, made between 1940 and 1950 How to Find Your Serial Number
If you cannot see the number on the outside of the frame, check these common locations: Bottom of the Trigger Guard: The most common external spot. Left Side of the Frame: Hidden under the left grip panel Butt of the Revolver: Stamped on the bottom of the grip frame. Key Identification Markers Black Powder vs. Smokeless: Examine the mainspring flat leaf spring
usually indicates an early black powder model (pre-1909), while a coil mainspring indicates a 3rd Model designed for smokeless powder. Owl Head Grips: If the owl on the grip is facing toward the barrel , it is often an earlier model; facing can indicate later production. Patent Dates: Check the top of the barrel. Dates like "PAT'D NOV. 17.08"
are typical for 3rd Model Safety Automatic revolvers produced between 1909 and 1941 Top Resources for Collectors
For the most accurate data, collectors recommend these specialized sources:
The dusty shelf in Elias’s shop held many secrets, but none as stubborn as the rusted Iver Johnson Safety Automatic. Its cylinder was locked, its history hidden under decades of oxidation. For Elias, a serial number wasn't just a string of digits; it was a birth certificate.
"Let’s see when you were born," he muttered, pulling the trigger guard back to reveal the hidden stamp on the frame. Serial Number: G 48219.
He turned to his weathered copy of the Iver Johnson Arms & Cycle Works production records. In the world of "Owl’s Head" revolvers, a single letter prefix was the key to the vault. No Prefix: The early years (1909–1919). Single Letter: The roaring twenties (1920–1929). Double Letter: The depression era (1930–1939).
According to the serial number decoding experts, that "G" meant this piece of steel rolled off the line in Fitchburg, Massachusetts, right around 1924. It was a "Third Model," designed for smokeless powder—the pinnacle of the company's famous "Hammer the Hammer" safety design.
Elias cleaned the grip, the iconic owl logo staring back at him. What was once just a "cheap mail-order gun" as some called them was now a century-old survivor. Thanks to the database, it wasn't just a relic anymore; it was a 1924 time capsule.
Finding a definitive serial number database for Iver Johnson revolvers can be tricky because the company's factory records were destroyed in a fire. However, firearms historians have meticulously reconstructed these records based on physical features and surviving catalogs.
The "Best" and most authoritative guide for Iver Johnson serial numbers is widely considered to be the work of William E. "Bill" Goforth, specifically his book: Iver Johnson’s Arms & Cycle Works 1871-1993. Quick Reference for Dating Your Revolver
Since a searchable online "database" doesn't exist in the modern sense, collectors use specific physical design changes to narrow down the manufacture date. 1. Identification by Model (The "Safety Automatic")
The most common Iver Johnson is the Safety Automatic (the one with the "Hammer the Hammer" transfer bar). These are divided into three "Models":
First Model (1894–1896): Look at the top strap. If it has a single leaf spring for the barrel latch, it’s a First Model. These are black powder only. Without a key, a rusty Iver Johnson was
Second Model (1897–1908): These have a double top strap latch. These are also black powder only. Using modern smokeless powder in these is dangerous.
Third Model (1909–1941): These were redesigned for smokeless powder. The easiest way to tell: The owl logo on the grips faces toward the barrel. On older models, the owl faces the back of the gun. 2. Serial Number Letter Prefixes
Iver Johnson used letter prefixes to denote different frames and years. If you find your serial number on the bottom of the trigger guard or under the left grip, look for these prefixes:
A, B, C... (Plain prefix): Usually indicates early Safety Automatic production.
G, H, J: Often associated with the "Petite" or small frame models.
S: Generally indicates the .38 caliber "Super Shot" or specialized target models from the 1930s. 3. Where to Find the Serial Number
Iver Johnson revolvers often have "hidden" serial numbers. If the one on the trigger guard is worn: Remove the wood or hard rubber grips. Check the left side of the grip frame (the "strap"). The number stamped here is the most reliable for dating. Recommended Communities for Lookups
If you cannot find your specific number, the following forums have experts who own the Goforth book and can provide an exact year:
The Firearms Forum: Has a dedicated "Iver Johnson" sub-section.
Gunboards.com: Excellent for identifying older "H&R" and "Iver Johnson" revolvers.
Note: Always ensure the firearm is unloaded before checking under the grips or inspecting the barrel.
Are you trying to find the value of a specific piece, or are you just looking to verify if it's safe to fire with modern ammunition?
This is a report on the Iver Johnson Revolver Serial Number Database, focusing on what is available, its limitations, and how to best use serial numbers to date and identify these popular American top-break and solid-frame revolvers.
There is no single, official, complete public database of Iver Johnson revolver serial numbers. Factory records were largely lost or destroyed when the company ceased operations. However, collectors have reconstructed partial serial number ranges and production date charts, primarily for the top-break models (Safety Automatic, Second Model, Third Model). The “best” available resource is a combination of:
No online database is fully searchable or complete.
Iver Johnson serial numbers are not universal across models. You must first identify:
| Generation | Years Produced | Key Features | |------------|----------------|---------------| | 1st Model (Safety Automatic) | 1894–1896 | No trigger guard, spur trigger. | | 2nd Model | 1896–1908 | Trigger guard, leaf mainspring, round firing pin. | | 3rd Model | 1909–1941 | Coil mainspring, flat hammer spring, hammer block safety. |
A 3rd Model with a hammer block safety is often marked on the left side of the barrel.